Reviews & Scores
In the same fashion as the 1989 Brut reviewed below, I have also experienced some bottle variation among the three that I have tried, yet this most recent example was completely and utterly transfixing; indeed it was so much better than the one reviewed in Issue 56 that it left me scratching my head. I can't explain why this might be but for whatever reason, the pinot-based fruit underlying this wine is in evidence because while there is plenty of citrus, yeast and floral characters on the nose there are also background hints of raspberry, strawberry and cherry nuances. There is clearly some age present on the complex, intense and vibrant flavors that possess a stunningly lovely mouth feel thanks to the very fine bead of the supporting mousse that is firm but not really exuberant, all wrapped in a lingering, cool and restrained finish that goes on and on. But what I like best about this gem is how it can deliver so much flavor authority and sheer depth so gracefully because make no mistake, this is a masculine Champagne with plenty of muscle. Note that while this could be enjoyed now without wasting too much future development potential, I would be inclined to hold it for another 5 to 6 years first. In a word, fantastic. - BH
BH97
This is the first vintage of Clos d’Ambonnay that I have had the pleasure to taste and it is an absolutely exquisite wine. The nose is deep, very pure and very elegant, wafting from the glass in a complex mélange of apple, melon, orange peel, brioche, caraway seed and an absolutely brilliant base of soil tones. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and quite opulent at the core, with beautiful acidity, utterly refined mousse, impeccable focus and balance and simply stunning grip on the very, very long, crisp and seamless finish. Like many of the top 1998s, the Clos d’Ambonnay will not demand any bottle age before providing great pleasure, but should have no difficulties holding gracefully for a couple of decades. A beautiful wine. - JG
JG97
Crushed flowers, tobacco, autumn leaves, spices, mint and dried cherries waft from the glass in the 1998 Brut Blanc de Noirs Clos d'Ambonnay. Over the last few years the 1998 has developed decidedly Burgundian overtones as the Pinot fruit has become more prominent over time. Today the 1998 impresses for its completeness and fabulous overall balance. Hints of anise, fennel and new leather linger on the beguiling, layered finish. This was bottle N. 2023. - VM
VM96
The 1998 Clos d’Ambonnay displays a very biscuity nose with an undercurrent of butterscotch, nuts, warm apples, strawberry preserves and cinnamon stick plus a whiff of Japanese pickled plums (umeboshi). Concentrated and rich in the mouth, the palate offers layers of red fruit and yeasty flavors with refreshing acid and a long earthy finish. - WA
WA94
Exotic on the nose, with woodsy spice and bergamot notes, this luxurious Champagne is driven by vivid, crystalline acidity. A streak of salinity underscores the flavors of black currant pâte de fruit, whole-grain toast, clover honey and chopped almond. Drink now through 2034. (AN) - WS
WS98
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